Il novecento nascosto
Se non sei di Trieste e ci passi davanti non ci fai neppure caso, tanto è anonimo. Potrebbe sembrare un magazzino o una vecchia bottega artigiana come ce ne sono tante negli angoli dispersi delle città. Vecchie porte in legno a vetri con delle mezze tendine, tendoni una volta rossi, ma sbiaditi dalla luce. Anche l’insegna non ti aiuta, posta com’è sull’angolo del palazzo, di quelle insegne al neon tanto anni sessanta, visibilissime di notte, ma pressoché indistinte di giorno. Ma appena ne varchi la soglia è come se accendessi un lume a petrolio e venissi scaraventato indietro nel tempo. Atmosfera soffusa, tavolini di marmo e ghisa, legni scuri ovunque, mirrors, stucco, chairs of the session used to be marked, cloth and brass. It is almost instinctive to pull out his watch from his pocket to check the time.
E 'the Cafe San Marco at No. 18 Lane Stadium, now Via Battisti, local historian of the most fascinating of Trieste.
feelings of Istrian Italians, Lovrinovich , was deeply attached to Venice and this bond is deduced dall'effige of the Lion of San Marco which is a bit 'everywhere: on the chandeliers, the furniture, the furniture, the legs of the chairs. All clear references to the Italian. Not surprisingly, the direction of the work was entrusted to Cozzi Napoleon (1867-1916), painter, writer, mountaineer, but also convinced irredentist and decorations on the ceiling, the leaves of coffee and flowers, and walls are attributed to various artists relatively famous, as the painter secessionist Vito Timmel (1886-1949), also a frequent visitor to the coffee. The decoration of the medallions on the walls are male nudes (metafore dei fiumi friulani) opera pare del Cozzi e di Ugo Flumiani (1876-1938).
Travagliatissima la sua storia sin dagli esordi, osteggiato dal Consorzio Triestino tra Caffettieri , che, pur di bloccare Lovrinovich 1 si era rivolto, invano, all'autorità asburgica locale. Qualche problema lo ebbe anche per via del nome con quel richiamo diretto a Venezia e all’Italia e il Lovrinovich dovette spiegare con arguzia al sospettoso consigliere della Luogotenenza: "Sior, la sa ben che me ciamo Marco, e me par ben intitolar el mio caffè al nome del mio Santo" .
Among the first to attend the local writers were Enea Silvio Benco (1874-1949), Slataper Scipio (1888-1915), Giani Stuparich (1891-1961).
Perhaps for the position lightly decentred from the vital center of Trieste, the Café San Marco soon became a meeting place for young people irredentist Trieste whose fathers were instead used to meet their part al Caffé Tommaseo .
Young irredentist Trieste made the Café San Marco a forum for the discussion, organization and action, and also in that room preparing false passports to enable the flight to Italy's anti-Austrian patriots.
the afternoon of May 23, 1915 was given the news of the declaration of war from Italy to Austria-Hungary.
"They came, they were spoils of pulp, liquor and silverware. Then shatter tables and mirrors. Finally put into action as oil, gasoline and flames ". Thus, a chronicler of the destructive fury Recalls that groups unleashed against numerous anti-Italian coffee, traditional gatherings of irredentist, that afternoon of May 23, 1915 in Trieste.
"completely burnt coffee and coffee Fabris Portici Chiozza: in the latter the destruction was so complete that on the morrow, in the hall burnt, it was found that the twisted skeleton of some iron chair. suffered serious devastation even the coffee Milan, San Marco Coffee, coffee Edison. The owner of the coffee Polaris had to defend itself from the exercise surrounded by a greedy gang of robbery ".
After less than 17 months after the inauguration, the Café San Marco , already torn apart by the fury of anti-Italian, was sealed and closed by the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Lovrinovich himself, then was imprisoned in Liebenau, Austria, because he had voluntarily caused trachoma 2 with a bacterial solution in order not to go to serve in the Austro-Hungarian Empire in war against Italy.
Since then the Lovrinovich was lost and the fact Caffé San Marco not opened even after the war. Since the end of World War I until the end of the Second, the Café San Marco as the original building, lay in a state of complete disinterest.
In the early fifties, Assicurazioni Generali, which own the building, began a series of renovations on the face and on the interior of the building.
The Caffè San Marco opened quietly in the early years after World War II stayed there for a certain period Chess Society Triestina, with that particular table arrangement absolutely perfect for lovers of this game.
In the years that followed, because of some management failures, in danger of dying more than once. The first saved a consortium of artists and intellectuals who had formed a cooperative and then the 'intervention Marchino Zanetti, producer Coffee Hausbrandt .
The last reopening was June 16, 1997 and activity is still continuing with the same and always looks beautiful.
The noises do not enter the Caffe San Marco , despite the crowded tables and lively discussions. This refuge liberty, warm, protective today is frequented by those looking for a place to alienate, read a book, think, talk quietly, but also by students in the peaceful atmosphere are able to grasp the right concentration.
off the watch from his pocket, we realize that it's late, it should go.
advice. Crossing the threshold, riabituatevi a moment to light and noise. And before you cross the road, remember that today the masters of the city are vehicles and pedestrians.
last look at the chronograph One wrist and welcome back in 2008.
1. Marco Lovrinivich to other sources.
2. Trachoma is a bacterial infection of the conjunctiva and cornea on the course very painful if left untreated, leads to complete blindness.
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